Running them faster is stressful on both you and the machine. You got it right about throttle setting - at and idle or JUST above an idle. put the bolt back in and give it 5 more pumps.
#Bcs sickle bar mower install
If there isn't one there yet, you should install a zerk on the main gearbox, remove the second bolt, and pump into the gearbox until grease comes out the other bolt hole. Grease zerks should be given a couple pumps daily or every 8 hours (seems there should be more than 2.). If you're harvesting the hay, I'd hesitate to put anything on the cutterbar that I wouldn't be willing to eat. If you feel you need more, just have some cheap veggie oil to dump on every now and again - but it really isn't necessary. The material being cut releases liquids that help lubricate the cutterbar. You loosen the jam nut and turn the bolt to increase tension on the bar. Most I have seen have a bolt and jam nut assembly. Adding too much pressure will cause it to bind, add friction, and greatly shorten the life of the bar and guards. You can only add so much pressure to the sickle bar. You only sharpen the smooth side while doing the sharpening. Shorter stuff builds up on the cutterbar. Sickle mowers really like a taller, heavier material to do an effective job. I will be grateful for any and all answers.įirst - how old a mower? Does it have rock guards out past the sickle sections, or are they about the same as the sickle sections? The older ones with the longer rock guards aren't as user friendly and have been off the market for a couple decades. What is the correct throttle setting for a cutter bar? Lastly, I was running at pretty low throttle setting, afraid of wearing out the cutter needlessly. Note: it has two zerk fittings, but I am talking about lubing the sliding parts, not the oscillating mechanism.
#Bcs sickle bar mower manual
It may have been the same basic idea as the first one.ĭoes anyone have a link to a user's manual for this thing? I think I found a service manual online, but it is almost entirely just diagrams.Īlso, what do you use for lubrication? I think I saw somewhere online one guy used chainsaw bar lube. How do you do the second adjustment? I think he told me, but I forgot. Maybe I didn't hit it hard enough? Not the right angle? Maybe the procedure is wrong? I did try this, and it didn't seem to increase the tension. He suggested using a punch to avoid damage. He said that the first adjustment (keeping cutting blades pushed against each other) is done by hitting the tension arms with a hammer at a particular angle (loosening is done by hitting them right in the middle). Second, the guy I bought it from (seems quite knowledgeable) said that there are two adjustments, one to keep the moving blades pushed against the lower blades, and one to keep the bar (behind the moving blades) pushed forward. Can I sharpen them with a file anyway? Do you take the blade assembly off to sharpen it? How often do you sharpen?
In the densest tallest grass areas with the driest, stiffest grass it did pretty well.įirst, the blades are serrated. Also, a lot of grass got trapped between the moving blades and the stationary blades. What I saw was that not all grass was cut. The results were only so-so, so I wanted some advice. I ran it for a while today on my BCS tractor. I recently bought a used sickle/cutter bar mower.
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